Francois Mikulski Bourgogne Cote d'Or Blanc

The concentration remains but the register has changed; lying between very ripe pears and nuts – Brazil nuts and pecans, almonds, and not far from walnuts either; at the same time, a sweetness evoking sweet almond oil, hazelnut, a white peach halo, sensual white flowers – opened wide, white roses in particular, a touch of menthol excites the nose, with a tendency to swell, bringing freshness and energy; the nuts now combine with white chocolate, a touch of crème fraîche; broom flowers add to the growing charm of the whole, a note of vanilla; and finally there’s something like gougères, or even cream puffs.
A creamy palate, a really thick but still soft crème fraîche, baked custard, pears and apples, a touch of caramel, baked pears and apples, a hint of roasted apricot, a note of quince again that has retained its character somewhere between fruit and vegetable, and there are oranges – slightly bitter such as Outspan, a hint of rhubarb, and clementine-cinchona bark.
A powerful finish, almost violent, definitely tannic, and there’s still that sensation of telluric depth already mentioned for the aligoté; the extraction imposed by the vintage gives the sensation of having swallowed a lump of limestone rock and clay – not just a mineral expression but the magma itself.