A magnificently solid wine, initially severe. At this young stage, the tannins dominate in a wine that also reveals a full fruit salad bowl of black fruits. Very dense, concentrated, this is a wine that's even better than the legendary 2005. The structure tells of its extraordinary aging potential: don't even attempt to drink this for 10 years.

Takes a modern approach, with dark mocha- and espresso-infused toast leading the way, featuring an extra ganache kicker before dark currant preserves and roasted plum fruit strides in. Dense and extracted through the polished finish, this features a charcoal spine that gives rise to extra blueberry and pastis notes. Should cruise in the cellar. Best from 2018 through 2038.